De-winterizing

[AlmostThere]

Ok, this is probably a "DUH" question but bare with me. When I dewinterize my MH is all I have to do is put water in the tank and then run it? Will that fill the water heater etc?

[Getupngo]

This is not a "DUH" question at all. I've screwed it up a couple of times. So here's all I know from hard experience and you'll need to check your manual to find these various drains & plugs:

In my rig, I have to
1. close the drain that empties the water tank,
2. close the drain from the water pump, and
3. put the drain plug for the water heater back in (in mine it's a little plastic 1/2' pvc plug that my guy just leaves sitting there).
4.Make sure the valves to your gray and black tanks are closed as well!!!

Next, you need to clean the system:
1. Fill your water tank and put in a small amount of bleach.
2. turn on the water pump
3. open all your taps (including the shower) & run water through your pipe system to clear out the antifreeze.
4. Drain the chlorinated water from the main tank using the valve you closed above.
5. Re-fill the tank with clear water and rinse the plumbing out again. Drain again. Add more water to the tank.
6. now you need to switch open a diverter valve that keeps the antifreeze from getting into the water heater once it's drained. Opening this valve now will allow the water heater to fill and you won't run antifreeze or chlorinated water into it.
7. if you have an icemaker, make several batches until the antifreeze is gone.

I think that's it. Thanks for helping me think this through. LOL. I have a mantra, "Everything operates properly when properly operated." You all can guess which things I have forgotten to do or done incorrectly.

Anyone feel free to correct/add to what I've posted. This has been edited several times.

[AlmostThere]

Thanks for all the great info. I know that had to take allot of time to compose. I appreciate it!

[Cedar518]

Janice, I like the step by step approach! Thanks,... although my rig is going to dealer for several things one of which is the "dewinterizing" I will be doing it myself in the future.

[mitch5252]

This is pretty long, but I have found it really useful. It's on the Yahoo Group for Fun Finders (my trailer...)
It covers both winterizing and de-winterizing. I've highlighted the "NEXT SPRING" (de-winterizing) in bold red.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

REVISED October 7, 2008

How to Winterize your trailer.

NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON -- ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.

Get 2 gallons of RV antifreeze.
It costs around $4 at Walmart or the RV isle in many dept stores
and RV stores.

Your dealer should have shown you drain and bypass valves in
various places throughout the trailer.

Here is my short course in winterizing.

ADDITIONAL info-- Some new trailers are now coming equipped with
inside water filters. You will need to remove the cartridge and
discard it and drain and re-install the base before winterizing
with RV antifreeze. Your water filter- if you have one- is where ever
you find it. I'd start by looking near the water pump and fresh water
storage tank. If it's not there, try looking in the lower cabinets
on the water hook-up side of the trailer.

When you winterize depends on where you live.
In Kentucky we can have freezing weather any time from
mid October on. You can put a space heater in there
on the first few cold nights and open the cabinets so the heat
can reach the water lines and stave off the first few freezes
if you are trying to extend your camping season. IF you do this
be sure your waste water holding tanks are empty!

Start by accessing your fresh water tank.

Note the braided hose that runs from the lower corner of the white fresh
water tank over to your water pump.
That is the suction or inlet hose to your water pump.
See the fitting on your water pump where that hose connects?
I advise you to go to an RV dealer and buy a fitting like that.
At that time you should also buy about 4 feet of that same
braided hose.
(Most any 1/2" inside diameter hose will work here.)
We're calling that new hose and fitting your "antifreeze hose".

NOTE-- some new trailers are already equipped with this suction
hose and valve!!

While you've got your head under the mattress or dinette seat looking
at the water tank and pump you might as well open the water tank
drain valve. The water tank drain valve is on the corner of the
tank nearest you and sticks through the floor.
Mine turns 1/2 turn or 180 degrees
to go from closed to open. Leave it open all winter.
You might want to crank up the tongue jack a bit to facilitate
more complete draining of the tank.

Make sure the water pump is off.
Open a faucet and let all pressure out then go outside and
open the outside cover on your water heater and remove the
large drain plug near the bottom of the tank.
It requires a large socket but should not be all that tight.
Some folks have discovered you can probably use your tire
lug wrench to remove the plug! Don't forget to open
a faucet 1st and let out pressure or you'll get soaked when
you remove the water heater drain plug!
Leave it out all winter.

(The Asian lady beetles have become a problem in some areas.
Leaving out the plug may allow some of them to find a winter
home in your water heater. It might be a good idea to replace
the plug after it's thoroughly drained or put a wad of cloth
in the hole. That will allow water to seep out but also keep
out the #$%@! bugs.)

Remember now you cannot turn on the water heater with no
water in it!! You might want to put a piece of tape over
the switch so you don't forget and turn it on by accident
or better yet, remove the water heater fuse.

NOTE- if you have a new trailer with dual heat gas/electric
water heater be sure and switch off the circuit breaker for the
water heater. It will burn out the electric heater almost immediately
if you have it on with no water in it.

IF you have low point water line drains and know where they are located
you can open a faucet and then open the drains to let most of the
water drain out of the lines. Shut the drains when done with this
optional step.

NOTE: you don't have to drain the water lines but it saves
you a little antifreeze if you already have the water out of there
when you put in the antifreeze.

Now go back to the water pump/fresh water tank area (under the
mattress or front dinette seat) and look
at the styrofoam covered water heater tank.
There should be a valve where the LOWER water line
connects to the water heater tank (on the INSIDE of the
trailer) -- under the bed or dinette.
Turn that valve all the way from it's current position.
(Probably 180 degrees but I'm not sure.)
That is the water heater bypass valve.
It routs water from the water pump, bypassing the water heater,
and feeds water directly into the hot water lines.
This allows you to pump anitfreeze into the hot water lines
but not into the hot water heater.
Lots of other brands have to add this bypass valve themselves but the SC
company includes it. (So far at least.)
NOTE-- we've been told that 2006 and newer models may have 3 valves on the
water heater tank. If your water heater has 3 valves connected to
it, you'll need to turn all 3 of them to bypass the water heater tank.

ADDITIONAL NOTE--
Newer trailers may come with an antifreeze suction hose already installed.
It should have a cap on it and a valve at the pump end.
Simply remove the cap and turn the valve then place the end of the
hose into a full jug of RV antifreeze and proceed.

Older trailers do this--
Unscrew the hose fitting on the suction or inlet side of your water pump.
That is the braided line that comes from the fresh water tank.
Attach your new 4 foot "antifreeze hose" and fitting to the water pump.
Set a jug of RV antifreeze close by.
Make sure all faucets and water line drains are closed.

Stick the end of the hose into the jug of antifreeze and turn on
your water pump.
If you don't see it draw pink up to the pump- be sure all pressure
is out of the system. Open a faucet briefly to let any pressure out
and the pump should prime itself and you'll see pink fill the
line coming out of the jug.
It should run for a few seconds and then build pressure and shut off.
If it tries to empty the jug you've left a drain or faucet open somewhere!
Now starting at the farthest point -- probably the shower --
open each faucet for a moment and let it run until you see
pink antifreeze come out. Don't forget the inside and outside shower head.
Don't forget to do both hot and cold sides of everything.
Flush the toilet until it runs pink.
Remember the outside shower if you have one and the kitchen sink.

This last step is a bit tricky.
TURN OFF THE WATER PUMP.
Open a faucet and let almost all the pressure out.
Now go outside and use your finger or a screwdriver in
the garden hose connection. You want to gently push in
on the check valve and see pink antifreeze run out. Careful
or you'll get squirted doing this!
Some folks find that the darn check valve will get un-seated
and stick open at this point.
Try this trick- my trailer has a cold water line drain located under
the sink area. I open that drain and go outside to the garden
hose connection. I use one finger to push in on the check valve
and put my lips over my fingertip and blow. It's awkward but
it works. I can blow the water out of that part of the line
so I know it won't be able to freeze.
This method avoids the dreaded "un-seated check valve."!
Be sure and replace the rubber plug or screw the cap back on the garden
hose hook up when done.

Another way to winterize this outside hose connection is to
be sure ALL pressure is out of the system.
Open and then close a faucet to let out all pressure.
You can now easily push in on the check valve where the garden hose
would connect. While you are standing to the side and holding your
finger on the check valve- have a helper BRIEFLY turn the water pump
on and back off. You should get a squirt of clear water and then pink
antifreeze. As soon as you see pink you can remove your
finger! Replace the cap when done.

If you are one of the unlucky ones and your check valve comes
apart anyway--
See the file called "city water check valve.pdf" near the
top of the files section to find out how to put the
@#$%^@! check valve back together. (A BIG tip of the old ball cap
to Sam for that file!)

That's just about it.
Turn off the water pump and re-connect it to your (empty) fresh water tank
or put the cap back on the suction hose and turn the valve back
to where it was for summer use.
Put some tape over the water pump switch so you don't turn it
on and run the pump dry or remove the fuse.

Pour a cup or so of antifreeze down the shower drain,
bathroom sink drain and kitchen sink drain.
Empty your gray and black water tanks.
Some folks recommend pouring a quart down the toilet and a quart down the
sink drain so there is some antifreeze in the bottom of both
holding tanks. It's up to you. I skipped that last step and
only needed 1 gallon of antifreeze to do my entire trailer.
It took me about the same time to DO as it just took me
to type how to do it for you )
Really, it's a 30 minute job if you have the extra fitting
and hose so you can let the water pump do the work.

Next spring-- put some teflon tape or teflon pipe dope on the
drain fitting and replace it in your water heater.
Do not over tighten a plastic drain plug!
Some are metal and can be tighter.
Check it for leaks after you pressurize the system.
--Don't forget to close the drain valve in your fresh water tank.
--> Don't forget to turn the water heater bypass valve(s) back to normal.
Put some water in your fresh water tank.
Turn on the pump.
Open each faucet until clear water comes out clear.
The water pump will likely run for a few minutes as it
is re-filling the water heater.
If it runs for hours you probably forgot to put
the drain plug back in the water heater!
Check for leaks everywhere but especially the drain plug
at the water heater.

If you have city water nearby and want to speed up the process
you can hook up to city water and let that re-fill your
water heater. Open a hot water faucet to let out air while
you are filling the water heater.

It's probably a good idea to put a cup of chlorine bleach
in the water tank along with about 5 gallons of water.
Run that through the pipes to sanitize them.
Flush the pipes with fresh water after you do that.
See the files area and read the "sanitizing" file for
complete directions.

You will most likely notice an odor and some foaming from the water
the first time you go camping next year. The antifreeze did that.
It normally goes away after a day or 2 of using the water system.
We take a blue 4 or 7 gallon water jug from Wal-Mart for our drinking
water on the first trip and any time we are leery of the local water.

Don't forget to remove the 2 main fuses (top center) of your power
center. Also remove the 1 amp fuse for the LP Gas detector.
Turn off the little amplifier for the TV antenna.
If you have a battery disconnect switch you can open that
and not have to remove fuses.
The reason for removing fuses is these things will slowly drain
your battery.
A dead battery may freeze and burst. It's a BIG mess.
You don't want your battery to freeze and completely discharging a
battery shortens it's life.
Some folks remove the battery. I do not. I check the water and
once or twice I will run an extension cord out to the trailer
and replace the main fuses for a day so the power center can
top up the charge in the battery. If your trailer is kept at a storage
lot you may want to remove the battery for anti-theft protection.
We often camp in February and again March or April and May.
Our battery doesn't sit long enough to need a top up!
When we plug in the trailer to get the refrigerator cold the power
center will charge the battery for our next trip.

Wes has good ideas for cold weather camping. See the files area.
When we camp in winter we don't use the water system.
We carry water in the before mentioned 4 or 7 gal jug and sit
a couple of gallon jugs of water in the shower for
flushing the john. A jug for tooth brushing is good too.
If it's going to be below freezing at night you'll need
to drain your holding tanks each day.
You might want to bring a "short" 5 gallon bucket for draining.
Be sure and empty your holding tanks completely and pour a bit of
antifreeze down any sink traps that you may
have put water in when get home.

It's not all that hard!
It's a good idea to crawl underneath and caulk or stuff
any large holes with steel wool.
(A copper pot scrubber -if you can find one- will work for
stuffing holes and it won't rust like steel wool.)
This will help keep the mice out.
A mouse can get into a dime size hole!
A mouse nest in your trailer is a stinky messy yucky thing.

NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON --
ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.

Good Luck and Happy Camping!

[VickieP]

[mitch5252]

Oh, just because you think you know it all...


..

[VickieP]

No, just because I haven't had enough coffee yet this morning to read that long and not fall asleep!

[AlmostThere]

I don't have to worry about anti freeze as the guys that winterized it used air to blow out all the water etc, so I'm also thinking that all plugs have been replaced and things should be pretty much ready to go. My main concern is making sure water gets into my water heater again.

[Bethers]

Even when blowing out the lines, many places still put in the antifreeze.

But for the water heater - make sure the valve that gets turned to bypass position is turned back to regular - otherwise you won't get water in the water heater. As long as that valve is in the right position, you'll be fine. If not, you'll burn out the water heater if you turn it on - as it won't fill.

[AlmostThere]

I think I'll just play it safe this time and call them and ask.

[JanetA]

Thanks gals! that sure is a LOT to remember. I will always refer to these lists!!!


THANKSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

[carold]

Think I'll just continue to winter in warm climates carold