OTW wrote:Speaking of surge protectors, the one recommended by my trailer-savvy friend was somewhere in the $350 range (Progressive EMS PT30x) but since my start-up expenses have turned out to be so high, he said for the time being a simple $5-$10 receptacle tester can be pretty helpful - at least it can rule out a mis-wired campground receptacle or if something's just not working right with it, and in the case of thunder/lightening, just unplug. Also as I looked at them (Amazon had right one but with a different letter at the end), the Progressive ones that have model numbers ending in C are made in China, the ones with X are made in USA.
Here is a link the Progressive EMS PT 30 for $256.00 a very good price, well compared to other places that sell it. I also added an earlier discussion on Surge Protectors that might help.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... gIZ_PD_BwEMelissaD » Wed May 17, 2017 9:51 pm
Redetotry wrote:I haven't used a surge protector before so I am not sure if I need have a Surge Protector at the post and also an inside voltage meter like Karen suggested?
How do you check the electric at the post to be sure above 110 before plugging in. If you plug in the surge protector will that tell you or do you need to use a Polarity check like these before the surge protector is plugged in? I have the 3 wire circuit analyzer but it confuses me.
http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/testing.htmReally it's a EMS or Energy Management System more than a "Surge Protector" if that helps. It's not really named right.
On my unit (I have the Progressive EMS-HW50C hardwired inside my RV) when I plug into the pedestal and turn on the breaker, the unit runs all the checks and if its happy with the voltage (high or low), polarity, ground, etc... at around the 30 second mark it turns on power to the RV. The delay is to protect AC compressors from cycling stresses of power flickers. Mounted inside my cabinet with all my tanks and switches is a display which reads the voltage and amps for each leg (50 amp service is two 50 amp rated lines (L-1 and L-2) or 100 amps total. If I have a problem it will display an error code.
Side note: 30 amp service is a little bit more straight forward as there is only one 30 amp line. Since a the 50 amp service for an RV looks like a 220 volt house outlet and they are wired differently. Some electricians have made the honest mistake of wiring the pedestal like a house which is incorrect for an RV. It will supply 220 volts ac to the trailer instead of 110 volts. I have caught one CG wire the 30 amp and the 20 amp lines to a 50 amp break thinking he was making a 50 amp breaker. Yes 20+30=50 but 50 amp service is two 50 amp lines (100 amps total) Since the 30 amp line (L-1) and 20 amp line (l-2) are not each rated for 50 amps this is a real hazard. Another time using my EMS system I was also able to prove the CG had a faulty breaker and had them replace the breaker. Since a "50 amp" trailer can draw 3x the power of a "30 amp" trailer. It's why so many CG electrical grids are overloaded. They were not built for these loads.
Hope that helped before I confused you.