First - there is a lot of stuff already on this thread.. I read through most of it. One of the ladies asked me to chime in because I pull at 26ft TT. Here is what I have to say -
1. Fully evaluate realistic expenses so you don't get in over your head financially.
2. I personally have not seen a lot of campgrounds with a 10 year old limit
3. When you look at $$ remember annual maintenance - I just picked mine up and it was over $800. that was winterizing, packing the bearings (have double axel, so 4 wheels), had a repair to the propane ignitor on the refrigerator, installed new motor on stove fan - which had stopped, inspected the roof, checked on the electrical system as I had heard humming from the converter last time out.. everything on the electric was OK, but I paid labor for the "checking" which to me is worth it to know what is up.. turns out bad cell in battery likely cause hum - so new battery.
4. In the spring I will pay to have the roof cleaned and conditioned as I don't want to climb up and do it - not sure of cost should not be much. the UN-winterizing cost is included in the winterizing cost I already paid.
5. DO NOT skimp on tow vehicle. REPEAT - do NOT skimp on tow vehicle... My trailer is 4300 pounds - even loaded it is well within the tow limits of many SUVs, and half ton trucks. I tow with a 3/4 ton diesel! it tows like a charm. I have towed the same trailer with 3/4 ton gas powered - the difference is amazing. Before you decide on vehicle - where are you going to tow?? flat, mountains, etc. If there is a bit of wind, or rain, or other weather do you want to stay put or move on?? of course, if weather is horrible - no matter the vehicle stay put to be safe. That said - a lighter truck would be fine if you are a "good weather" only traveler and do not plan to tow through hills or mountains. I have seen half ton trucks with 26 ft and smaller pulled off the highway in the mountains to cool a transmission.
IN SHORT - the lighter, smaller vehicles WILL tow it, if you tow a lot - wear and tear on the engine and transmission may become an issue. A larger heavier vehicle might be smarter.
DIESEL vs. GAS
DIESEL - has more torque. you will not lose MPH going up mountains and hills. Will tow easier through rough terrain. Will be able to tow out of mushy ground. DIESEL is much heavier. Heavy is good. The greater the weight difference between TT and tow vehicle the better. If the tow vehicle weighs close to the TT weight, wind that pushes the TT around will also drag he vehicle around. The DIESEL will stay put on the road and straight ahead in moderate wind and when trucks pass. The GAS or lighter vehicle with be more difficult to keep on the road - I have experienced this. IF the trailer flips due to some wind issue or accident a lighter vehicle is gonna flip with the trailer. The heaver vehicle is more likely to stay upright - SAFETY is better the more heavy the vehicle. The overall fatigue from driving is less if you have a heavier vehicle.
DIESEL is more expensive fuel, but you will get better gas mileage.
DIESEL in the "tow mode" will down shift going down hills allowing you to use your breaks a LOT less. this saves your vehicle breaks and keeps your TT breaks from overheating
6. I prefer FORD. Trailer Life magazine is a GREAT resource regarding TT and RV stuff as well as vehicles. they rate vehicles for towing annually and Ford Trucks always come out on top of the list, so it is not just me. I don't want vehicle issues while I am on the road - so when I decided to keep my TT after my husband died - I bought brand new. it has a problem - I call FORD.
7. TT and RV living is not "cheap" as many people seem to think when they start out. The cost of the TT is one of the smaller expenses. The tow vehicle is generally a greater expense. There is maintenance on the vehicle and the TT. Insurance. gas - MPG is not great when traveling.
8. the tow packages on newer trucks/vehicles are REALLY Nice. Electric breaks built in and also some anti-sway capabilities.
9. I still use sway bar - the vehicle manufacturers will tell you it is not necessary - I personally think it is smart to use a sway bar.
10. I do not have problems putting on the weight distribution bars or the sway bar by myself. I do not have Blue Ox, have never used it so I cannot comment on them. Mine are REESE, they work just fine and while they are a bit heavy are not a problem for me.
11. the HEAVIEST part of hitching and unhitching is the hitch itself. I keep mine OFF and locked in the bed of the truck when not towing. IT IS HEAVY!!
12. also the BATTERY is heavy and must be removed for the winter. I keep it on the workbench in the garage and charge it once a month to keep up the charge in the winter.
13. I would recommend having an RV dealer help you with the hitch set up to assure you are towing well.. I have seen trucks and vans and SUVs on the road towing TT that are tilted one way or the other and that is NOT good.
14 - BE SAFE
I hitch and unhitch by myself. I am 59 and average active, I would say. I understand a lot about the electrical and plumbing system of the TT. My RV dealer has a spring and a fall seminar to remind folks about annual maintenance matters and products for cleaning, tank chemical, sealants, lubricants, etc. it is very informative and I always learn something. I do some of my own maintenance - lubing, cleaning the awning, taking off and replacing propane tanks to get them filled, etc. You will learn tips and tricks as you go along. I prefer to pay to have winterizing, roof work, bearings packed, etc.
sorry to be so wordy.
I ENJOY my TT and love my truck. I try to be thrifty. Having a TT or RV does not have to be terribly expensive, but there are expenses involved.
good luck.
roberta.