My RV

[Wanderer2]

Hello everyone. I have spent the past few months looking for an rv and finally found something that I think will work for me to get started. It is a 2001 Coach House Platinum with 61000 miles. I picked it up in Houston and drove it back to NC and got home today. It performed with no problems whatsoever. It is 23 feet and I was able to drive it with ease through cities which kind of eliminated the need for a toad. I have gone the whole gambit trying to decide what would be the best and easiest for me to get on the road and this was my original idea and I am pleased with it.
My orientation was too much info at once and I still have a lot to learn. I stayed in it every night, reviewed my notes and tried everything out.
It will take me a month to finish cleaning the house out(I am currently renting it as they don't need it until April) and get her loaded and ready to go.
First question-I turned the battery disconnect to off and turned off the Propane detector as it will be sitting mostly. Even though, I turned off the battery disconnect the electric steps still work. Is there something else that I need to do there?
I still have to dump tanks and drain the water as it is winter. It says in the info that this rv has some winter protection. I still want to drain everything just in case, I was just too tired today after 1000 miles of driving.
Also do I have to turn the propane off at the tank? Is the refrigerator and all pilot lights extinguished? All panel lights have been turned off. I am just trying to make sure that I am doing it right.
i will post some pics as soon as I get a chance.
Even after studying and reading for so long about how things work, I am a little confused. Your help is appreciated.
I am going to sleep good tonight.
Linda

[snowball]

you will probably want to put the pink stuff in not sure where or how but someone will tell you
full time and the only year I didn't it was froze before I knew I wasn't going south...unless you need the
propane on I would turn it off at the tank
and congratulations
sheila

[Azusateach]

Good for you, Linda! Nothing like baptism by fire!

To answer your questions, the steps are probably connected to the engine battery so will continue to work as long as that is still hooked. We have retractable steps, too, and they still work when we've turned off the house batteries. I don't know if you want to disconnect that, and if you don't, you'll want to go out and start the RV every 3-4 weeks.

And yes, turn off the propane at the tank. Turning off everything is a good practice.

Being from So. California, I wouldn't know about winterizing. But as far as your holding tanks go, getting them as empty as possible and then dumping a gallon of the RV antifreeze down each tank wouldn't hurt. And there are places that will winterize your rig for you if you're concerned about doing it properly. However, I'm sure the gals here will chime in and can walk you through it if you want to do it yourself.

I know you're going to enjoy your new home on wheels! Lots to learn, and lots of support here. Congrats!

Laura

[Acadianmom]

Congratulations on getting your RV and making it home. If I were you I would get someone to show you how to winterize or do it for you. It could be very expensive to have the pipes freeze and break. I am so far South that I have never completely winterized, I just run the heat strip in the air conditioner. We seldom have a freeze that lasts more than a few hours. I put up a curtain behind the front seats to close off the cab so there is less to heat. I put some pink antifreeze in the drain traps and some in the tanks and open the cabinets under the sink, lavatory and where the water tank is under the sofa. To completely winterize you have to drain the water heater and turn the bypass valve. To get to the water heater you have to open the bottom cabinet under the sink and pull out the back panel. It has velcro holding it. The bottom valve on my water heater broke and a repair guy took the bypass to fix it. I ask to have it replaced and the guy didn't want to do it because he thinks I will never need it. All of this is very hard to reach. I don't know if they told you but your water heater is probably gas and electric. To turn it to electric you have to turn a switch outside on the water heater itself. Some Coach House models have heated tanks, mine doesn't. Don't forget to drain the outside shower.

The steps are connected to the engine battery and starter. When they are working right, when you turn on the ignition the step retracts if it is out. The steps need to be sprayed with some kind of lucubration on the working parts probably once a month. There is a switch just inside the door to turn the steps on and off. If you put the switch to off the steps will stay out when you are parked.

My Coach House had the original binder with all the manuals and instructions. I hope yours did too. It's a lot to take in.

Martha

[IrishIroamed]

Congrats on your new home on wheels Linda. Can't wait to see pics. I'll keep mum about winterizing. For now, I'm still leaving that to the professionals.

[Wanderer2]

Thank you all for your comments. This is what I have done so far-dumped the black and gray tanks-that was easy. Opened the fresh water, cold and hot water valves outside and let them drain. Does that drain the water heater too? All electric is off, refrig, furnace, and all switches off at panel. Forgot to get anitfreeze, so will do that and pour down toilet, and sink drains. Should I put water back in fresh water tank and run through all lines? I think I did that backwards. I can do it again. That will protect the inside lines and water pumps so I read. Martha-Mine does not have a heat strip according to owners manual as previous owner opted out for that. It does say that it can withstand freezing temps but don't really understand how, so will antifreeze and just in case. Thanks for telling me where the by pass valve is for the water heater. I will go do that now.
That means that antifreeze will not go into water heater right? Also I don't see a valve to drain the water heater. Is it just the outside hot water valve?
It is going to freeze tonight and everything is closed so can/t get a walk through. I am going to just do it. Nothing like jumping right in huh
I also pushed in the emergency propane shutoff outside just to make sure.
I think that it will be alright after I finish. At least I certainly hope so as I would hate to damage anything.
Is there anything that I need to do about house batteries or generator? Didn't see anything about that.
Anyway onward and upward! I am happy with my new girl. I won't name her yet until we get to know each other a little better.

[Wanderer2]

Yet another question- I looked at the water heater bypass valve and it has a hot and cold valve. They are both pointing directly at me. It is not marked which way to turn to bypass. And do I do both? Is it necessary to remove anode rod to drain tank? So much to know, so little time. 24 degrees tonight so they say.

[IrishIroamed]

OK, I do know the dealer removes anode rod when they winterize mine.

[JudyJB]

You may or may not have an anode rod in your water heater, but there is a panel on the outside of your RV. Take the cover off, and you will see a plug you can open to drain the water heater. Stand back because it will gush out. It is good to do this anyway because there might be built-up minerals.

One other tip: If you do an internet search on things like draining RV hot water heater, you will find all kinds of how to do videos. I even replaced the seals on my toilet by finding one of those on the exact same toilet I had. Also, found one on draining hot water heaters! Not all RVs are the same, but a lot of them use the same systems.

For example, here is one I found on how to drain and clean an Atwood Hot water heater. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKg0R9oiMP0

[Acadianmom]

I just went out and looked at my low point drains and there are three, fresh water, hot water and cold water. I would think that if you opened all the drains it would drain the water heater too but I don't know that. I'm not sure what the difference would be between the cold and fresh water. The only time you would close the by pass would be when you were putting the pink antifreeze in all the lines. That would keep the water heater from filling up with antifreeze.

When you get ready to use your RV again be sure there is water in the water heater tank before you turn any power to it or you will burn it up.

If you got all the lines drained I wouldn't put water back in them. And you don't need water in the holding tanks, just put the pink antifreeze.

Martha

[Bethers]

As Judy said, the hot water tank needs to be drained separately... Unless there is something unique to those rigs.

You don't need to add water before putting the specific rv antifreeze in, but you do need to have the hot water tank bypassed first. Draining first was correct.

[Wanderer2]

OK and thanks again all. I have been a busy bee today and hopefully everything will hold through the night. I will check in am and see if I missed anything. Whew! It has been a whirlwind. Hopefully all will be well.

[Acadianmom]

I just wanted to tell you that I have called Coach House a couple of times with questions and they have been very helpful.

Martha