Diesel Maintenance

Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby MelissaD » Sun Nov 22, 2015 12:15 pm

My curiosity was peaked so I started to do some research.

Actually the majority of diesel these days is often a bio blend, All the major truck stops sell blended fuel. If you look on the pump you'll normally see a B5 or such sticker stating the biodiesel blend percentage. According to Mercedes-Benz like other manufactures, B5 is ok but above B20 they take issue. The recommendation is to use places with a high fuel turnover rate like a truck stop as the fuel spend less time in the tanks. Biodiesel has a shorter shelf life than non-blended diesel. In colder climates the limit is B5 due to increased cloud point or "gelling" (the paraffin wax in the fuel congeals and clogs filters) of biodiesel. If you are traveling around the county you need to fill up with "winter blend" before venturing into the colder regions . Snow birds have this problem when they fill up in Florida and then return to chilly Michigan and their class A stalls out from a clogged fuel filter. Blends of B5 of less do not require labels (https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/42/17021) Since the Fed's offer incentives to use biodiesel, many retailers blend to 5% or less so they don't have to label the pump as biodiesel and yet get their tax credit from the Feds. (http://www.natso.com/blog/truckstop-bio ... unraveled-)

Source: http://www.biodieselpumplabels.com/
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From Mercedes-Benz: http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalAssets/pdfmb/serviceandparts/biodiesel_Brochure5.pdf
Diesel fuel with up to B5 biodiesel content according to ULSD specification ASTM D975 meets Mercedes-Benz approved fuel standards and will not void coverage under the Mercedes-Benz New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Diesel fuels between B6 and B20 or higher pose risks of engine and fuel system damage, and are not approved by Mercedes-Benz. Please refer to the following recommendations to help avoid engine and fuel system damage if you do not have the chance to refuel your vehicle continuously with ULSD, maximum B5:
• Fill up with ULSD (B5 or less) whenever possible, from a name brand fuel station.
• Regularly monitor your engine oil level if you have no choice but to use B20 fuel.
• Strictly follow the oil change intervals quoted in the instrument cluster and within your maintenance booklet, and use ONLY engine oils and filters approved by Mercedes-Benz for use in the vehicle.
• If you do not plan to drive your vehicle for several weeks, fill your vehicle’s fuel tank completely in advance with ULSD fuel.
• Limit engine idling time to five minutes or as mandated by local ordinance.
Fuel with biodiesel content greater than 20%, including B100, is not approved by Mercedes-Benz due to the risk of severe engine damage. Any damage caused by the use of such non-approved fuels will not be covered by the Mercedes-Benz New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Use of higher than B20 results in higher (cylinder wash) lube oil dilution which requires more frequent oil changes.
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby cnq50b » Sun Nov 22, 2015 3:28 pm

Thanks, Melissa. I've been paranoid about accidentally putting any bio-diesel in my tank. I guess I shouldn't panic if I get it from a high turn-over station and now I won't worry so much if I can't find #2.
Thanks again for giving me a little piece of mind. :D

Changing the topic a bit. Melissa, is it hard on a diesel engine if I don't drive it very often or just minimally? I have to move my van every 3 days at my apartment. Some days I really do just move it from 1 parking spot to another but I try to get it on the road at least once a week just as my daily driver. Should I be taking it out more? Or at least driving it long enough to let it really warm up - further than the stores that are within a 2 mile radius?
Your advice is appreciated on keeping it in good shape.
thanks.
Catherine & Sadie
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby MelissaD » Sun Nov 22, 2015 5:20 pm

cnq50b wrote:.... now I won't worry so much if I can't find #2.


Most engines are designed for diesel #2. Only in areas were it gets really cold should you have to deal with #1 diesel.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/understanding-diesel-fuels.html

This is from the Banks Power Site:
"The refining companies are well aware of the starting problems associated with diesels in cold weather, and they usually “winterize” their diesel fuel by mixing 15-20 percent No. 1 diesel with the conventional No. 2 diesel in cold climates. This improves the volatility of the fuel and reduces the cloud point to slightly lower temperatures. At this point, we should discuss the differences between the two grades of diesel fuel. Diesel No.1 and No.2 are the two common grades of diesel fuel. No. 2 diesel is by far the most widely used since it provides the most energy per gallon for improved power and mileage, and the highest lubricity for the fuel injection pump. Since it is a heavier distillate than No. 1 diesel, No.2 diesel is usually a few cents per gallon cheaper too. Some diesel engines are designed to operate specifically on No. 1 diesel, especially if the engine will be subjected to frequent starting and stopping, but No.1 diesel has several disadvantages. First, it provides less lubricity than No. 2 diesel, which can prove troublesome for some fuel injection pumps, and second, it contains roughly 95 percent of the heat energy of No. 2 diesel. And as we just mentioned, it’s a little more expensive too."

Ok, now for the rest of your question:
Diesels like to be run or parked. A farm diesel may sit for months at a time and then be started. It's the actual starting that is hardest on the engine. It takes a few seconds to get the oil up out of the sump and distributed around the engine. This time of high friction is hard on the engine. Idling is also hard since oil pressure at low rpms is not always sufficient to properly lubricate the engine. Why we "high idle" a semi, to boost oil pressure. The engine needs to get hot, ie up to normal temps to ensure the fuel is properly burnt to minimize soot (carbon) build up in the engine and its oil. Also extra fuel in the cylinders tends to "wash down" the cylinder wall which also dilutes and pollutes the oil.

The large diesels (think 2 stories tall, ship mounted) we'd let them sit till needed and then they had a pre-lube pump to circulate warm (heated) oil before we even turned the engine over. The cylinder cocks were opened and the engine jacked (rolled) to ensure everything turned and got some oil on it before the engine was started. We'd idle them, then partially load them to warm up the oil temperature. Only when the oil temps were in the normal range would we "full load" the engine. If the oil was too cold or hot it would not properly lubricate the engine. When you burn 256 gallons of fuel per hour at full load you don't want to start the engine without it making you some money to pay for the fuel.

During the winter I use to let my diesel pickup sit for a month or so at a time since I pretty much own my pickup to pull my camper. When the weather was nice during the winter, I'd start it and go for an hour or so drive to charge the batteries, move all the lubricants around just give it some "exercise". Plus I just like to drive my pickup. ;)

Well my "fleet of vehicles" (as my insurance agent calls it) is one short so I've been driving my pickup the 2 miles to work. Because of this, I've been trying to take it for a "Sunday drive" on the weekend to make sure the soot gets burned out, the batteries charges and everything is happy again.
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby BirdbyBird » Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:10 pm

And yes, Melissa, once again I am reminded how lucky that you found us.....you are a marvel for what you know and for your curiosity to find out more about what you might not know. Thanks again for sharing and explanding our knowledge no matter what we drive! :)
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby cnq50b » Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:17 pm

BirdbyBird wrote:And yes, Melissa, once again I am reminded how lucky that you found us.....you are a marvel for what you know and for your curiosity to find out more about what you might not know. Thanks again for sharing and explanding our knowledge no matter what we drive! :)


Ditto!!!!
Thanks, Melissa!

Guess I'll start taking the big van to the beach more often (about 40 minutes away) to make sure all the fluids get moving around. :)
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby MelissaD » Sun Nov 22, 2015 8:12 pm

Thank you. Just happy to contribute.
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby Bethers » Sun Nov 22, 2015 11:39 pm

cnq50b wrote:
BirdbyBird wrote:And yes, Melissa, once again I am reminded how lucky that you found us.....you are a marvel for what you know and for your curiosity to find out more about what you might not know. Thanks again for sharing and explanding our knowledge no matter what we drive! :)


Ditto!!!!
Thanks, Melissa!

Guess I'll start taking the big van to the beach more often (about 40 minutes away) to make sure all the fluids get moving around. :)

Thanks, Melissa

And I think a beach run is vitally important every week, maybe?
Beth
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby bluepinecones » Mon Nov 23, 2015 12:59 am

Just adding another thank you. Oh, and encouragement for the frequent beach trips.
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby BurninDaylight » Mon Nov 23, 2015 1:32 pm

I'm running a Diesel engine that is 15 years old. I don't have to use DEF, but I do use a fuel injector cleaner additive in every tank in the summer and use a winter additive to help prevent gelling.
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby cnq50b » Mon Nov 23, 2015 9:59 pm

OK, OK, a weekly beach run is now a necessity - it'll be good for the van's engine, Sadie's need to run & my soul. :D
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Re: Diesel Maintenance

Postby gingerK » Tue Nov 24, 2015 10:58 pm

My thanks too, Melissa. I learn so much from you. :D
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