RV Keys and Security

[AlmostThere]

There is nothing like returning to your RV after spending a few hours down on the lake front to find it has been broken into and ransacked! Unfortunately, in today's society... It happens more so than not.
What are the perps looking for? Aside from personal items, such as Laptop computers, power inverters, or cell phones, today's newer higher end RVs have flat screen LCD TVs with digital tuners, 5.1 surround receivers, or remote high powered amplifiers and room-shaking sub-woofers. For the most part, these criminals get away with their take, leaving the RV owner/vacationer with much less than they bargained for. In the majority of cases, windows are not broken and doors are not pried open, leaving Law Enforcement with little physical evidence.
 There is one main reason: An improperly secured RV is easy to break into, and the crooks know it. RV Master keys can be obtained very easily. For security reasons, I am not going to discuss exactly how one goes about getting RV master keys but, believe me... it's easy!
   
This guide is being written to alert you, the RV owner, of the shortfalls of standard (or sub-standard) RV security mechanisms.

When an RV comes from the manufacturer, it commonly has 2 sets of keys, one for the entry door and one for the baggage compartments.

Lets talk about Entry door locks and keys first:

The entry door KEYS for the majority of RVs currently manufactured and sold, are the "9901" (Mistakenly called the "1066" when read upside-down.) or "M"/"MK" Series.... (Both the "9901" and "M" or "MK" series interchange with each other, even though one is two-sided and the other only has teeth on one edge.) They may have a black sleeve or jacket over the large end as well. The RV owners set of keys seldom has the code stamped on the key itself. On the other hand, the RV Dealer/Service Technicians keys will have the code stamped on the key.

Okay, Where do I find my code? Read on...


The lock set itself is recessed into the entry door and is rectangular or square in shape and finished in white, black or chrome. There are other series that have come and gone but are still in use in older RVs manufactured over the last 10 to 20 years. (These include the "C", "E", "F", and "1R" series.) To find out the series of your lock set, look at the lock tumblers on the door itself. They are found in lock sets made by several RV door lock manufacturers and the series number is commonly stamped on the round lock entry plate, right next to where you insert the key into the lock located on the handle.

You will notice not one but TWO locks on these lock sets. The one in the handle (the one stamped with the code) can be unlocked with a master key with the same "code"... (Remember the "9901" can also unlock the "M/MK" coded series handle locks, and visa-versa.) The other lock, located in the outer frame of the lock set usually uses the same exact key BUT CANNOT be operated with a master key. It operates a DEADBOLT! Securing both locks greatly increases protection of your RVs contents! WHEN LEAVING YOUR RV FOR ANY TIME, USE BOTH THE LATCH AND DEADBOLT LOCKS IF YOU VALUE YOUR BELONGINGS!

Okay, lets talk about baggage compartment locks and keys:

There are no "Master Key" for these locks. The lock itself may or may not be stamped with a "code" although the key is commonly stamped as such. As an RV owner, you have the same key the RV Dealer has... a "CH751". The guy camping in the spot next to yours? YEP... Same key! The RV Owner down the street?... SAME KEY! With a few exceptions, this is a universal key and these baggage door compartment locks are mass-manufactured with little or no thought of YOUR security. I've even seen some manufacturers build sub woofers and expensive stereo equipment into the baggage compartments for lack of space inside the RV. Many RVs have an access to the living area through the baggage compartments as well, such as laundry chutes, interior steps, floor or wall panels. IF SECURITY IS IMPORTANT TO YOU, THIS IS A POINT TO CONSIDER WHEN LOOKING TO PURCHASE AN RV. How easy would it be for a stranger to gain entry into your RV using non-conventional means? So, what is protecting your investment? A generic "CH751" lock set! It is seldom a criminal will want your water heater or furnace but stereo equipment?... That's another story! Everybody has access to these keys!

There are several aftermarket companies that have answered the call and made replacements that are unique, providing you with a more secure compartment. You can even have the compartment locks matched so you don't have to carry three, four, or more different keys. They come with a cost but, what is more important to you? PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT!

NOTE: Federal law requires that ONLY THUMB LOCKS be used in the compartment that houses your LP Tanks. This is because it aids in quickly turning off the LP Supply in the case of an emergency, without wasting the time fumbling for or attempting to locate keys. Under NO circumstances should you put keyed locks on your LP compartment(s).  

Guide ID: 10000000008147656Guide created: 08/01/08 (updated 07/27/12)

[oregonrambler1]

Phew.. lots of information, thanks! I'm going to print this out so I have a hard copy when I go check my RV tomorrow.

[ellenw]

Wow, Lenora! If you come to the Oregon GTG, will you show me where these codes are? I'm having trouble following, without actually having an RV to look at. What's the source of the guide? (Bookmarking this post for sure!)

[avalen]

751 key....very universal and there is yet another very universal one that many have too and that is the 545 key.
And guess what else, that key, both of them, the 751 and the 545 is the same key on the little locks on the schoolbuses too.
The fuel door? 751 key. You can change the locks out though by using those post office box lock sets. I haven't tried it, but
was told that by other rv folks I know.

[AlmostThere]

Found it on Ebay.
http://reviews.ebay.com/Your-RV-Series- ... 0008147656