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Since this is something I forget to do regularly I thought I'd post this article for all of us. You can buy a thingy at CW that attaches to your hose and goes inside your heater to rinse out all the gunk and believe me, you'll get gunk. Be sure you have a roll of Teflon tape (Walmart plumbing dept) before you start. When you buy a new annode rod you need to know the make of your heater as there are two different sizes.

Most all RV water heaters are protected by a magnesium or aluminium anode to prolong life of the tank by absorbing the corrosive action of hot water.

Just make sure the hot water has been turned off for a while or you may get scalded, and that your hose is disconnected so the system is not pressurized.

Then release any pressure in the water heater tank by pulling its relief valve and loosen the threaded anode rod at the bottom of the water heater. (Yes, from outside your rig.) Let all the water drain and flush out any debris with a hose.

Replacement anode rods can be found at any RV parts counter or service center. To prevent leakage, apply teflon tape to the threads before screwing in the new anode. Make sure it is screwed in straight and secure, fill the tank, run a faucet to allow any trapped air to escape, turn on the heater, and you’re set for another few months. Or at least until you remember you forgot all about the water heater anode again.

Just an addition - whatever kind mine is - you need the anode rod. The other kind does NOT come with them and it isn't needed. I saw that they have after-market things for them and when at a service show asked and found out you can actually void your warrany (if you have one) by adding it to that kind.

But, yep, for those who need them - keep them replaced. Since my anode rod got replaced by one to be able to change my gas only wh to gas or electric when plugged in - I'm told I won't need to replace this. Or not for a long tiem. We shall see. So far, so good. Oh, and I'm sure what was done to mine would have voided any warranty - but I'm long past that

Suburban heaters use the rod which is part of the screw in blug. I think they cost about $12 or so.

and the purpose for those things is????

JanetA wrote:and the purpose for those things is????

Janet, the anodes are to keep the minerals from eating up the inside
of the tank. Regular house type hot water heaters have them as well
and those need to be replaced from time to time too.

thanks girl! What will they think of next!

Linda, it's really easy - flush out the water heater. You can buy a device to put on the end of a hose, and put inside the drain valve opening to flush it out. It was less than $5 if I remember correctly. Most rv places have them, including Camping World. I don't need vinegar or anything else if I have that. Then you simply put the new rod in in place of the old. You only replace the rod on Suburban hot water heaters. The Atwoods don't have replaceable ones. And they don't recommend switching to them. But flushing out is recommended with all of them.

I remembered the pricing right - here it is on CW website: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... nser/49070

Linda, the minerals are sitting in the bottom of your hot water tank. It's better to use a little water pressure to move them and get them out. Don't know what vinegar would do to help that process.

The biggest thing you have to be aware of is getting the new anode threaded properly when you install it. And when you take it out you may need a breaker bar to loosen it. Mine was in really, really tight and there was no way I was going to get it out with a little extra leverage. BTW ... a breaker bar is a good thing to have anyway.

For those of you who full-time it's been suggested that you replace your anode at least every year. It's amazing how quickly they disintegrate. Just remember, a little bit of prevention is a whole lot cheaper than replacement!

Laura

Yep, Sarah, but in this case, the device they sell uses pressure and gets the minerals out right away. I can't imagine filling my hot water tank with the vinegar, letting it sit, then doing this, when doing this by itself works.

Since I replaced my anode rod with the different kind used to make my wh work electric, I don't need to replace it - don't know why. Maybe it's more like what the atwoods use. But I still check and have to get the minerals out.

SOMEBODY, please POST PICTURES!?!?!?

Riverstone, I don't have pictures. but on the outside of your rig find the hot water heater. When the door is opened you will see (if your heater has one, some don't) a hex shaped nut to turn. Mine was difficult to break loose because of the deposits on it. The longer handled wrench would work best to give you more leverage. ONce you get it out you need to rinse the inside of the water tank of all the accumulated junk. I have a nozzle that attaches to a hose and squirts water at high power inside to rinse. You can order these on line at camping world. There are two different sizes of annode rods depending on the model heater you have. Hope this helps.

Linda, the sediment in the bottom of the tank probably isn't hard. When I did mine as soon as I got the anode out all sorts of white sludge came pouring out. Then taking the oversized water pick and squirting it around the inside of the tank was all I needed to clean it out well.

One word of caution: Turn the burner on the tank off and let it cool down before trying to take the anode out. You could scald yourself badly if you try it with hot water still in the tank.

Laura