A Women's RV Forum run by Women RVer's!

OK, learned quite a bit - and I think one of the most important things I came away from the seminar I 1/2 attended (1/2 cuz I had to leave for a prior commitment, unfortunately) is that just because it's in the RV aisle or even SAYS it's made for RV's do NOT believe it's good for you to use. And they proved this more than once in the seminar.

Here's one example. They set up several jars of water. Then we got to test several toilet papers to see which ones dissolved the best (and therefore are best in an RV). 2 of the TP's were specifically made for RV's - then we had a one-ply, a two-ply and some two-ply with added stuff (like lotion, scent, etc). The worst TP was the last - and they said to not buy anything with dyes, scents, lotions for the rv toilet. But then the next 2 worst - and almost as bad - were the 2 made FOR RV toilets. HA - they say to NOT buy them - go to the store and the best is a one-ply - like Scott, etc. They wouldn't say one brand over another in this case, but said to do our own tests - just put a couple squares in water (I have done this before) and let them sit 10 minutes or so - make sure you do them all the same length of time - then shake the container up and see what happens to the TP. Now, they didn't do the test, but had some of us do it - and we got the results they had already written down.

Another example: (I'll talk more about Rubber Roofs in a minute) - but you aren't supposed to ever use anything with any petroleum product in the ingredients on a rubber roof. Well, several of the "sealers" that are on the market, some marketed specifically targetting the RV industry, contain pertroluem. Guess what? Using that product with petroleum in it will void any warranty you have on that roof.

Now - another fallacy - is that the rubber roof needs maintenance and sealing. Nope. What it needs is to be washed - and the places where it is around things (your air conditioner, etc) - those places you need to make sure the seals remain good. The rubber roof itself is warranteed for 10-12 years (on most RV's) without doing anything else to them. And they are not intended to need anything else done.

I could go on and on about that - but will just go on to say - what to clean your rubber roof with? The absolute best method of cleaning it is to use a LIQUID LAUNDRY detergent. (Not liquid dishwasher or dish soap).

There are a couple products made to seal those items (air conditioners, etc) where they meet the rubber roof. What you want to buy is the sealant called LAP SEALANT. It will be made for this purpose (Dicor is one manufacturer of it - Dicor makes most of the rubber roofs). LAP Sealant will not have silicone in it - and whatever you do - do not use any sealant on the roof with silicone. It will not hold on the rubber roof.

Air Condiioners Freezing up - anyone want to guess the #1 reason it happens? (No, it's not using it 24/7 - they are made to be used that way). It's a dirty filter. The next reason (and this one I don't understand, they got technical) was running it on low speed - they said it will have less tendency in hot temps or hot/warm temps with high humidity if run on high speed. (Something to do with even tho the fan would always be running, it would get more opportunity to cycle off the actual compressor). The 3rd reason would be people trying to use these air conditioners to bring the temp down too much (they are made to work well up to a 18-22 degree difference from the outside air. (One more note - those of you in See Ya's have totally different air conditioning systems lol - but the principles are the same.)

I know I need to clean my air conditioning filter monthly now, and it was weekly to every other week during the past summer. So, yep, they sure can get messed up. And it is safe putting the filter back in wet (if, like me, you clean it by rinsing it off.)

We talked a lot about the water heaters. There are 2 different manufacturers of them. And ONE of the manufacturers has the anode rods we've talked about in other posts, the other is made without them. Many people have added them to the other manufacturer (sorry, I didn't write them down, but could get the names - my model is with anode rods) - Anyway - while many people add them - if you have a newer rv and your water heater still is warranteed by the manufacturer of the water heater - and you have the one without anode rods and someone convinces you to add them, you just voided your warranty. So, if you really want to do it, wait till after the warranty is up. But that brand, they do not believe needs them. My brand NEEDS them - as Ernie taught us - and the water heater should be emptied and rinsed out every 3-6 months (determine by location, sand, wind, dirt, etc) - if not sure, do every 3 months. Check the anode rod each time - if it's getting worn quite a bit, replace it. OK, if you have a NEW rv, do NOT replace the anode rod until it is 75% worn the FIRST time - after that 50% is good. But the anode rod the first time is coated with some chemicals that the manufacturer WANTS to get into the system as it wears.

Lots about black and grey water tanks - but mainly things we've talked about - however if any of you want to ask, I was there for all of that.

Lots about fridges, but I don't do my own fridge work, and didn't write much of that down. But I might remember some of that if you ask.

Again, I wish I hadn't had to leave early (and I was there 2 hours!) I had no idea it would be so good or such a long seminar!

Beth, this posting came at a good time. I am going to a RV dealer tomorrow to pick up a couple of items and will see if they have the sealant for the roof. I have an Atwood hot water heater and it does not have an anode rod. Do you know why anyone would want to add one if it is not needed. I have never cleaned the filter on my a/c and haven't a clue how. Can you do it from the inside? I bought used and it had next to nothing about maintenance. I also read to use Spic & Span on a rubber roof, was that mentioned? Thanks, good subject.

They didn't like Spic & Span - were admant that the best product for the roof is liquid laundry detergent. Adamant about LIQUID, so that might be why spic & span didn't make it. Maybe if you carefully mixed it. But I'd read all the ingredients - one reason that liquid dishwashing detergent wouldn't be good, some of them have petroleum in them!

Thanks, about Atwood, and yes, mine is Suburban (with the anode rods). I actually have read posts on other forums about people saying how the rods will help and should be added if your rv came without. I think these people don't realize it's a different brand and they were made without. One man here said he added it and would do it again, but never had problems before, either. So who knows?

Oh, if you get stains on your rubber roof and want to clean them off, you can use bleach. However, dilute it on a cloth before using, and have a fresh cloth to immediately wipe it off. If it runs down the side of your rv, you will bleach some of the lovely colored graphics in terrible streaks. So, when I say liquid laundry detergent - it must be withOUT bleach.

For a note on the black and grey tanks. They recommend every few months that after dumping the tanks, if you can not use them overnight - to fill both with water and Dawn dish soap. If you can drive around a bit, fine, and then fill almost all the way (leave a little space for sloshing) If you can't drive, fill up - and let sit overnight to 24 hours, then drain - and your tank should be clean and sensors should work again (if the actual sensor itself is still working). If you're like me, I often clean my black tank, but haven't done the grey - but they say it needs to be done - and they recommend Dawn because of it's grease cutting abilities. Grease is the number one clogger of grey tanks.

And this is the 2nd rv repair service that has told me I should have a clear elbow on my black tank - just before the hose, so that I can actually see if it's clean after emptying. (I don't have it - and think it's about time I add one to my list of things to have). That way, when dumping, you really know if you can stop rinsing. (And they charge a minimum 1 hour service charge to clean out a clogged black tank - which he says he can now do in 10-15 minutes. Everyone there laughed and said that was less than they'd charge LOL).

what a great post, thank you Beth
I did know about the two different types of hot water tanks and the anode thingy, but
I sure want to learn as much as I can about that dang a/c. and then of course there is
the refrigerator too, need to learn more! my brain wants to act like a sponge and suck
up all the rv knowledge it can.

Good post, Beth! Shirlv, the filter for the A/C is on your ceiling where the cold air blows out. It's under the plastic cover, just play with it, it has 2 hooks that hook under the edge, so you need to kind of pull back on the cover to release them. The filter is usually a grey or black foam and just wash it with Dawn ( again for the grease cutting capabilities) rinse and put back in. Don't know how to explain it any better, but if I have time I'll go out to Hope and take one down and take a picture for you.

As for the fridge, about all the maintenence you can do is go outside, take off the vent cover, and blow out all of the dirt and crud with light air (don't blast it, and turn off fridge before you do it). It only takes a little speck of ash on the igniter to keep it from lighting if you're using propane. The other thing is to go up on the roof if you can and check the flue to make sure no little birdies have decided to set up housekeeping there. Keep it defrosted and don't use a hairdryer unless you have it set on cool air. That plastic melts in a heartbeat. The newer fridges don't care if you're a little off kilter when you park, but the older ones hate it and pay you back with crystals in the ammonia solution, so keep that in mind, too.

Sharon, thanks I understand about the a/c. No need to post pictures unless you want to.

A note on fridges - which I learned at this seminar - that came home to someone in the park today. If you have a Norcold fridge (I have Dometic) - Norcold requires maintenance to be done (I think annually - check your paperwork) and you MUST have receipts that show that it was done. If you ever have a claim, and haven't done the maintenance, or don't have the necessary receipts, you will not get reimbursed. I kind of 1/2 listened to that part, since my fridge is Dometic - but today, one of the people in the park has a faulty fridge, and is having to pay for a new circuit board - they thought they had followed the warranty, but the paperwork they have from various servicings don't specify that the work required was done.